Bali (imagine a long sigh)… the world’s favorite tourist destination in 2017 (according to Tripadvisor). To me, it is not easy to summarize this place quickly.
The first time I went I loved it for the reason that it was my honeymoon and my first adventure to Indonesia. Otherwise I was not too enchanted by the sunburnt tourists with their big bellies that were garnished with a giant Bintang logo, the markets which sell big wooden penises in front of every attraction, or the trash on the street, on the beach, in the gutters.
Yet, I made a lasting connection to Bali that has lasted so far! Back in the days, I did some training and volunteering in Australia and East Timor. I reached someone still working in that organization but who has relocated to Bali. He and his friends were amongst other things visiting families in a specific neighborhood in the capital Denpasar. Many more or less poor families from another province of Bali moved there to find job opportunities in the city. The volunteers offered education programs at that point. By now their involvement is broader and aims to develop the community.
The living conditions of the urban poor have been my main motivation to study urban planning. Their resilience I admire. Building up friendships with some of the passionate and humble volunteers has not only built me up personally, but also allowed me to get to know some of the many urban poor. Three stories are depicted in my illustration section. Some of them live in slum-like conditions: the houses and huts are prone to flooding and storms, no running water, cramped spaces and so on. Some of the children do not go to school, but sell goods on Kuta’s streets. We saw little boys younger than 10 years old tattooed all over their body as uprising tattoo artists pay a few Rupiah to practice on them. And the sweetest five-year old girl knows certain dance moves from the TV. Many – not all! – parents struggle with income, petty crime, sick family members, paying expenses for religious rituals. Indonesia was my favorite country to study. And Denpasar has become my case study.
Because of my friends and my research project in Denpasar, Bali was frequented regularly. Especially the study trips allowed me to gain a deeper understanding of the history of the island, the impact of tourism, the society and its norms which are derived from the Balinese Hinduism. This is very valuable to me and something I take a little bit pride in. Denpasar is a big crowded city. It is not the glamorous exotic Bali you know, but rather the hectic and ugly backyard with all the amenities capitals have: schools, universities, hospitals, government buildings, public parks, temples, meeting places. Still the city allowed me to learn so much: Village leaders, politicians, teachers, students, government administrators, Hindu priests, Imams, missionaries were met. A Hindu funeral, impromptu Balinese dance lessons, church services were attended. Nyepi was celebrated. Homes were opened to me.
I must say that I do not like exploitation of the island and its people by tourism. Yet I am one of the many millions now. Denpasar is no longer my case study. While I don’t mind a nice day trip to the soft white and golden beaches of the south, I prefer the lush north. East Bali is my favorite, yet the coast of Tabanan has also caught my attention during my last visit.
The chosen photos hopefully show the diverse impressions from the many trips. They do show the natural beauty of the island. But they are also in an invitation look beyond the perfect surf wave, the hip beach bars, the commercialized dances and glimpse at the daily routine of Balinese residents. While many pictures have already been taken from the island, I hope you still enjoy my perspective on it.
One of the women I interview for my research project. She rents the house on the left. She shares the plot with another party, on the right. The plot has a well, but the groundwater is contaminated. The house is made from a mix of bricks, tiles, bamboo mats, cardboard and wire netting. Like many other residents in the area, he house suffers regualrly from flooding. She came from the dry part of Karangasem, looking for work opportunities in Denpasar. She produces carang saris, little baskets for the daily Hindu offerings (seen in the big yellow bags). With a few case studies, I was documenting the way of life of Denpasar’s urban poor and social housing residents.
During my field visit I stumbled into a dance class. The dance class is organized by a mom and her two daughters who have all been very successful in dance competitions in all of Indonesia! The father turned out to be one of the priests and the brother was directing the Balinese music group in the local Banjar. What an actively engaging family in the community! Visiting them in their home willb e one of my most meorable experiences at Bali. There was so much to discover and so much to understand!
One of the girls could not decide which class to attend but still enjoyed to be around the group.
One of my friends took me around the neighborhood that became my research field – children were our constant sweet companion.
The owner of this house works from home as a sewer. She can take care of her daughter and mother-in-law, while her husband works across town as a silversmith. They have extended their social house from one room to several rooms, yet on a very basic level. The roof still has a an opening – one day, they will extend to a second floor.
This kitchen arrangement pleased my eye in the midst of chaos and half-built houses.
The owners originally planned to build two houses on one plot but delayed construction. Their tenant takes advantage of that and uses his roof and the pillar for the new house to hang up a clothing line.
During my field visits I met many children. The children are already actively involved in the preparations for daily religious rituals and ceremonies. The girls prepare a canang sari, a basket made from grass for little offerings.
Some families have their own plot for huge tempel areas, or build them on their roof – many families cannot afford this and downsize the family temple.
The view from one of my friends’ hallway over Jimbaran.
Out hotel manager greets us friendly as he discovers us on his way to a ceremony.
When HIndu people deceive, their Balinese family cremates the body. After the cremation, the remaining bones are collected as a memory. The ash is thrown into the sea. That time I was invited to the funeral of a man that belonged to the royal cast. The festivities in Ubud were extravagant. We learned that day that about 80% of the imcome of Balinese people are spent on ceremonies alone. Many work three or four jobs in order to pay the expenses.
This little boy had quiet a character: sweet, loud and adevntorous. But when auntie came around, he knew his manners!
The night before Nyepi, silent day, demons are burnt. The demons are huge statues biult by the Banjar communities. Before they are burnt, the communities perform a story with them (carrying them with about 15-20 men). The best performances receive a price. I am not a big fan of the figures themselves – some look on purpose terrifying – but am astounded by the effort the communities put into this day!
Bajra Sandhi Monument park: The early mornings and later afternoons are well-visited by sportspeople of all kind.
Fields & mountains near Ahmed.
The area around Tirta Gangga in Karangasem is hilly: me and the guide climbed down many steps to the closest stream, where he explained that many people from the village come down here to wash themselves and wash clothes.
A farmer in Tirta Gangga shows us his produce: tomatoes and flower.
The closest I got to the beautiful volcanoe Mount Agung during a hike through the rice fields of Tirta Gangga. I was considering hiking up the mountain but after I met a local man who reported that he fell badly (and he went repeatedly) I chaged my mind. It also looks pretty from the distance.
I’m in awe with the Tabanan coast with its rugged beaches, rock formations, water holes, puddles and hills.
I’m in awe with the Tabanan coast with its rugged beaches, rock formations, water holes, puddles and hills.
I’m in awe with the Tabanan coast with its rugged beaches, rock formations, water holes, puddles and hills.
I’m in awe with the Tabanan coast with its rugged beaches, rock formations, water holes, puddles and hills.
We were taking a strill through the Jati Luwih rice terraces.
The iconic rice terraces that Bali is famous for. Gorgeous anytime, but especially lovely for sunrise in the early morning hours (except the frightening barking dogs :-))
The iconic rice terraces that Bali is famous for. Gorgeous anytime, but especially lovely for sunrise in the early morning hours (except the frightening barking dogs :-))
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